Sewing 101: Flat Collars

Moving right along with the sewing 101 series. It is time to move on to collars. Today and tomorrow we will go over collars. Drafting them and then sewing them. Today we are going to start with the flat collar. Also known as the Peter Pan collar. It is a pretty basic collar (since believe me there are a lot of complicated collars out there) So let's start easy with the flat collar which means it lays flat right out of the neckline. 

 To start the drafting of the collar you will need a front and back bodice. (need help with the drafting check here)

 Next tape the shoulders together. Make sure you tape them how you would sew them including a seam allowance. (you could also draft the collar from the sewn bodice piece if you want to sew it first)

 Then you are going to trace the neckline of the bodice. I mark which is the front and which is the back.

 Next (excuse the amazingly wobbly line ha!) You are going to sketch the collar. You want the straight edge of the back to use to set your collar width. I choose 1.5 inches for this collar but what you choose is up to you. Then you want the width to stay the same so I follow the neckline curve and mark dots 1.5 inches out and then connect the dots. When you get to the front you want to make a curve that extends out past the mark of the front.

 Next you want to outline your seam allowance around the whole collar. (unless you don't want a split in back in which you can cut this out on the fold of the straight line in back.)

 Once you cut out your collar (4 if you are doing a split collar and two if you are doing a one piece collar) Cut off the seam allowance from the pattern and use that for the interfacing pattern. Trust me when it comes to collars you don't want to skip on the interfacing or they will loose their shape and look all wonky. (not good) Then iron the interfacing on to the wrong side of the collar piece. (only one piece of the collar needs the interfacing)

 Then take two of them and sew them right sides together. Next I use pinking shears to trim the curve since it is easy and fast and helps the curve. Don't sew along the neckline you are only sewing the outside edge.

 Now with it right side out you have 2 collars. (So they each should have one piece of interfacing ironed on to the inside)

 Then place your collar along the neckline of the bodice. (your bodice and facing should be sewn at the shoulders)

 Next you will put your facing along the edge as well. (need help with facing? check here) Sew along the neckline.

Then turn your facing to the inside and there you have a lovely flat collar.
Not to bad right?

What will you be putting a collar on first?