Thursday, May 17, 2012

Skinny Cuffed Trousers (and a guest post!)

One of my favorite things to do is browse JCrew kids clothing. I LOVE their style and the fashion without being too fussy, but the prices? Yikes! I am on a tighter budget then that. So when I can't buy the things that I love, I make them. These pants were very much inspired by these Only without the $50 price tag and a few little design changes these came in at only $7, not too bad at all. (Let's ignore that I was too lazy to iron them after Jude wore them around and wrinkled them all up ok) 

 He just happened to wear them at our backyard vintage tea party. In fact I am guest posting over at CINO today during Vintage May and I am sharing Abbey's dress so hop over and check it out! (then come back for the pants)
 Some slim cut pants with welt pockets. The perfect flair for dress up or casual wear.
 So to start I was going to draft a whole pattern kind of like I did here. However I wanted to save myself the trouble and I went with the Nowhere Man Pants pattern since I knew I already liked the fit I could just adjust a few things. Like to start I added a faux fly by extending out the front crotch piece like so.
 Next I wanted angled pockets not curved pockets so I simply cut the pocket at an angle.
 I was sure to do the same for the facing so they would match up.
 Then I knew I wanted a slimmer leg so I just eyeballed it and cut the leg slimmer. Then I had two legs like so, for the front. For the back I cut it the same as the pattern only making the leg slimmer as well.
 Then with the faux fly I knew I wanted a faux tab waistband so instead of cutting the front band on the fold I cut one the regular size(not on fold) and one longer with a curved edge that would over lap. Then I cut an extra set for the lining.
 I also wanted to add a little tab to the front pocket, just a little detail. So I cut two and sewed them right sides together then turned it right side out and pressed.
 I matched up the raw edge with the edge of the pocket on the front of the pant. Then sew the facing to the edge.
 Then turn the facing around to the back and top stitch the edge. Then finish the pocket as instructed.
 Then with the front pieces right sides together sew along the black dotted line in the picture to sew the faux fly.
 Then press the faux fly off to one side.
 Top stitch around the edge. Then you have a nice little faux fly.
 Now for the welt pocket in back. Cut a rectangle that is about an inch wider than you want the pocket but several inches taller. Then pin in place right sides together where you want the pocket. Then draw the pocket on the rectangle. The pocket should be fairly narrow and long.
 Sew along the edge. (the outline on the pocket) Then cut a slit down the middle and angle into the corners.
 Then turn the rectangle into the inside. Press.
 Now you want to make little accordion folds in the back so the bottom covers the opening and the top overlaps. (If you need more help on making those folds check here)
 Then sew around the edge of the pocket to secure the folds in place but be careful not to sew the pocket closed.
 Then I cut another rectangle for the pocket lining that is the same width as the first but longer, or as long as you want for the pocket depth. Sew it to the bottom of the pocket piece. (not the pants just the bottom flap)
 Then fold the pocket lining so the top meets up with the top of the pocket. Then sew along the dotted line. Only you are only sewing the pocket lining to itself, and the pocket folds but not the pants
 Then when you are done you have a pocket that is separate from the pants.
 Then for the other pocket I decided to do a faux pocket, so I just wanted a flap. (but you could do a welt pocket under the flap if you wanted) So I cut out two flap pieces and sewed them right sides together. Then turn it right side out and press.
 Then with the flap facing up sew in place along the raw edge.
 Then fold the flap down and topstitch in place to cover the raw edge. I added a button to secure the flap in place. ( you will see that later)
 Now for the waistband I did it just like this one, so the pieces over lap.
 Now I wanted belt loops so I added them to the back before I added the elastic.
 Then I added the elastic to the back and I secured the other end of the belt loop. I also added two belt loops to the front.
 Now I wanted cuffs on the pants without the pants being short so I added several inches to the leg length and I made an extra large cuff.
 Then fold up the cuff and tack in place. It's great for growth spurts too, since I can let it down if needed.
 Then the new pants were ready to go. Paired with a new belt (tutorial coming) and he had a sweet new outfit.
I love the pocket details, they just make it a little something special. Oh and the $7 dollar price tag? That makes me even happier :)

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