Thursday, April 18, 2013

Adding bubble sleeves to a top


 Well friends I am finally done sewing for project run and play! The final looks go up tomorrow (and I am super excited about them!) What does this mean? Well dinner for my family, time with my husband at night, and back to sewing quick and easy projects. I can also get around to sharing the projects I had been working on but never blogged since apparently I only  have time for one thing at a time ha! So a while back (like February) I was contacted by Erin from Children's Fashion Workshop. If you have always wanted to make your own designs but struggle with drafting a basic bodice and sleeve to start things off, then you will find your solution here. She has basic bodices and sleeves for infant-10 years, you will also find basic pants. 
 She gave me a basic bodice and sleeve block to play around with and even though the possibilities are endless, I went with a basic tee, my daughters favorite and I added a bubble sleeve like I had on the Modern Artist Dress. Even though it was done a little different for the knit the concept is the same. (let's all ignore the little pucker at the shoulder... I should fix it, but I didn't eh)
 The knit is a super soft and stretchy knit that my husband picked up for me at Britex Fabrics in San Francisco. The knit is heavenly and since I accidentally saw how much he spent on it I have been holding on to it for a year now, but I finally bit the bullet and made a tee shirt, and I love it. I have enough left for one more project so now I just get to decide what to save it for :)

 So starting off, I used the basic bodice and sleeve in the size 4T. The are designed with 10% ease (plenty for a tee) You do have to add your own seam allowance, and then all I did was lengthen the bodice and alter the neckline so it was a little wider. I cut the sleeve nice and short (more on the sleeve later)
 So I cut a front and back bodice, and then since it was a tee I cut some neck ribbing. It should be a strip about 1.5 inches thick and wide enough to fit around the head when stretched.
 For the sleeve. I cut one sleeve at the regular size slightly shorter than I want the sleeve to be. Then I cut a second one that is wider and longer, that is the bubble layer.
 Now to sew the tee sew the front and back at the shoulders.
 Then sew the neck ribbing to form a loop. Fold the loop in half width wise. Then pin in place at the front back and shoulders. You will have to stretch the ribbing as you sew.
 Then top stitch the ribbing in place again stretching as you sew.
 Now for the sleeve. If you are not using a knit you will want to gather the bottom edge, but since I was using a knit I just stretched the regular sleeve to fit as I sewed them together. To do this pin the middle of the two sleeves together then pin the two sides together and stretch as you sew.
 The bubble layer will be all nicely gathered.
 Then gather the top of the bubble layer sleeve. Fold the sleeve so the raw edges meet up.
 Then sew the sleeve into the arm curve. You will sew the bubble edge to the right side of the shirt and sew through both sleeve layers.
 Then with right sides together sew the sides of the shirt. Lastly hem the bottom and done.
 As you can see simple changes to a basic block pattern can create endless design possibilities. Over at Children's Fashion Workshop you will also find lessons so you can learn how to add different design elements.
I know I had fun playing with the basic bodice.

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