Spa treatments vs. home treatments

Skin feeling dull and congested? Have you been considering an exfoliation treatment? Took me longer than anticipated for this post but better late than never right?

Microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion is a general term for the application of tiny rough grains to buff away the surface layer of skin. Many different products and treatments use this method, including medical procedures, salon treatments and creams and scrubs that you apply yourself at home. Its usually done to the face, chest, neck, arms or hands.

Whether done with a product at home put in a professional setting with a specialized tool, the principle of microdermabrasion is the same.

This process has a few beneficial effects. With the stratum corneum (topmost layer of skin) gone, the skin's surface is improved. The healing process brings with it newer skin cells that look and feels smoother. Some of the skin's visible imperfections, like sun damage, blemishes and fine lines are removed. Also, without the stratum corneum acting as a barrier, medicinal creams and lotions are more effective because more of their active ingredients and moisture can find their way down to the lower layers of skin. Microdermabrasion worlds especially well as a way to clean out clogged pores.

If you went to a clinic or salon to get microdermabrasion done, the technician or dermatologist would use a specialized tool for the procedure. The tool shoots a stream of tiny crystals, like aluminum oxide, sodium chloride put sodium bicarbonate, and collects the leftover dead skin cells and used crystals.

There are also newer tools that use a single, diamond-tipped wand on the skin instead of a stream of particles. I have used both systems and I prefer the use of crystals, and have seen better results than with the diamond-tipped wand.

There are some at home treatments available. There is one that I really like, Olay Regenerist Microdermabrasion & Peel System. Its a two part kit and I would notice smoother, softer skin after one treatment. When looking at microdermabrasion kits pay close attention to the size of the crystals. You want a very fine grain. Larger crystals may have rough edges which would leave tiny scratches or cuts on the top layers of skin.

Chemical Peels

There is a big difference between chemical peels done at home, in a spa and in a medical facility.
Peels at a spa can have a chemical strength up to 30%. Any higher strength would have to be done in a medical facility where a doctor is on staff. The most common acids used in peels are lactic, salicylic, glycolic and kojic, or a combination. A chemical peel chemically exfoliates the top layers of skin. The thing I love best about peels is you can customize how strong of an exfoliation you get by the strength of the acid used.

Which chemical peel is best for your skin type/condition?

Lactic acid: An extra gentle peel and good for even the most sensitive skin. Lactic peel with the strength of 30%-50% is beneficial for mature skin and helps to reduce the look of wrinkles.

Salicylic acid: Best for acne prone skin. Not only does it help to control but also prevent acne. I wouldn't recommend this peel for those with sensitive skin as it can be irritating.

Glycolic acid: For those with dull dehydrated skin glycolic is a wonderful peel. Also an ideal treatment for fading sunspots, acne scars and blemishes. Gives your skin a fresh glow. This one is my favorite :)

Kojic acid: You will usually find this one combined with another acid. Kojic acid is a strong skin brightening agent. Improves skin tone, texture and clarity, reductions of acne, clogged pores, shallow wrinkles, fine lines, melasma, and hyper-pigmentation. It also increases collagen and elastin production.

Want to do a chemical peel at home?

I have used many at home peels, although its not the same as getting one from a professional you can still achieve good results.

Clayton Shagal AHA scrub, its a Salicylic acid base. The nice thing about this peel is that it neutralizes itself so you don't have to worry about keeping it on for too long.

Ebay has a lot of chemical peels. Few things to look for when buying something online: NEVER purchase a peel with a higher than 30% strength. Only purchase from a USA seller, and look at their feedback to see what other buyers say about their peels. When you purchase a peel do a test spot behind your ear (skin is thin and more sensitive). Apply peel and leave on for a 3-5 min. if no reaction proceed to do your face.

To apply a peel

1. Cleanse skin 2x

2. Apply either rubbing alcohol or a strong alcohol base toner with cotton balls. The alcohol will remove all surface oils allowing the peel to have better penetration. Allow skin to dry.

3. Apply a thin layer of the chemical peel with either a fan brush or fingers (using gloves). Do not massage into skin ad avoid mouth and eyes.

4. Let sit for 3-5 min. As skin becomes more tolerable you may go up to 7 min. You may feel a slight stinging, itching or burning which is normal. On a scale from 1-10 you should never get to a 7, if you do remove immediately with cold water.

5. Pat with cold water than rinse with cold water until you no longer feel the stinging sensation.

6. Apply moisturizer and sunscreen if done during the day.

For the next 2-3 days you will want to avoid sunbathing, tanning beds and facial waxing as skin may be more sensitive. You may do a peel as often as every 10 days to once a month.

Have any questions? Let me know :)